SKU: 16605359764

Full Gasket Set for Toyota Conquest RSi & Corolla RSi 4A-GE 16V (1986-1988) - FSTO40810SA

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Description

Full Gasket Set for Toyota Conquest RSi & Corolla RSi 4A-GE 16V (1986-1988) - FSTO40810SAVehicle Fitment & Part Details This full gasket set (SKU FSTO40810SA) fits the first generation Toyota 4A GE 16 valve small port engine in the 1986 1988 Toyota Conquest RSi hatchback and Toyota Corolla RSi sedan sold in South Africa. The kit includes the cylinder head gasket, crankshaft seals, and valve stem seals everything needed for a top end refresh or rebuild. The oil sump gasket is not included and must be ordered separately if you are dropping

Vehicle Fitment & Part Details

This full gasket set (SKU FSTO40810SA) fits the first-generation Toyota 4A-GE 16-valve small-port engine in the 1986-1988 Toyota Conquest RSi hatchback and Toyota Corolla RSi sedan sold in South Africa. The kit includes the cylinder head gasket, crankshaft seals, and valve stem seals - everything needed for a top-end refresh or rebuild. The oil sump gasket is not included and must be ordered separately if you are dropping the sump. Cross-references to Toyota OE 04111-16020 series, Payen GN390, and Victor Reinz 01-52573-01.

Key Details

SKU
FSTO40810SA
Component
Full Gasket Set (Head + Lower Engine Seals)
Engine
Toyota 4A-GE 1.6 L 16V (first generation, small-port)
Power
81 kW / 110 hp @ 6600 rpm
Primary Fitment
Toyota Conquest RSi 1986-1988
Lead OE
Toyota 04111-16020
Cross-Reference
Payen GN390 / Victor Reinz 01-52573-01

Key Benefits

  • Comprehensive gasket kit for a full top-end rebuild of the 1st-generation 4A-GE 16V small-port engine - the definitive SA enthusiast 4A-GE.
  • Cross-referenced to Toyota OE (04111-16020 through 04111-16023), Payen GN390, and Victor Reinz 01-52573-01 - one kit matching all major aftermarket catalogues.
  • Includes cylinder head gasket, crankshaft seals, and valve stem seals in one consolidated kit - saves sourcing parts individually for a rebuild.

What's Included

  • Cylinder head gasket
  • Crankshaft seal (front and/or rear main)
  • Valve stem seals
  • Supporting top-end gaskets (rocker cover, timing cover, intake / exhaust manifold gaskets as per kit contents)

What's NOT Included

  • Oil sump gasket - order separately if doing a bottom-end rebuild or sump removal
  • Cylinder head bolts - inspect and replace if stretched, corroded, or deformed
  • Timing belt, timing belt tensioner, or water pump - service these at the same time as best practice

OEM & Cross-Reference Numbers

  • Toyota OE: 04111-16020, 04111-16021, 04111-16022, 04111-16023
  • Payen: GN390
  • Victor Reinz: 01-52573-01

Product Specifications

Specification Value
Kit Type Full Gasket Set (top-end + crank seals)
Target Engine Toyota 4A-GE 1.6 L DOHC 16V (1st generation, small-port, T-VIS)
Includes Head Gasket Yes
Includes Crankshaft Seal Yes
Includes Valve Stem Seals Yes
Includes Oil Sump Gasket No (order separately)

Vehicle Fitment

Includes 2 supplied applications.

Make Model Variant Engine Years Power
Toyota Conquest 1600 RSi 4A-GE, 1.6 Petrol DOHC 16V 1986-1988 81 kW
Toyota Corolla 1600 RSi 4A-GE, 1.6 Petrol DOHC 16V 1986-1988 81 kW

Fitment Notes

  • Toyota Conquest vs Corolla in South Africa: The Conquest name was used for the 5-door hatchback (AE82) and the Corolla name for the sedan during this era, both with the same 4A-GE 16V engine. The RSi designation denotes the 1.6 Sport variant with the twin-cam 4A-GE. Both models share this gasket set.
  • The supplier power figure is 81 kW (110 PS / 110 hp) at approximately 6,600 rpm, matching factory specification for the 1st-generation 4A-GE 16V engine.
  • Always match the engine code stamped on the block: 4A-GE. Also confirm the head casting generation - the 1st-gen (1983-1987) has a 7-rib block and the small-port 16V head. If the engine has been swapped at some point in the vehicle's history, the original engine may no longer match.
CRITICAL: 4A-GE Generation Disambiguation

The Toyota 4A-GE engine was produced in multiple generations with significantly different specifications. This gasket set fits ONLY the 1st-generation 4A-GE (16V, small-port, T-VIS) as used in 1986-1988 SA-market Conquest RSi and Corolla RSi. It does NOT fit the following later 4A-GE variants:

  • 2nd-gen 4A-GE "Red Top" (1987-1989, AW11 MR2 / AE92 Corolla) - big-port head, different head gasket profile.
  • 3rd-gen 4A-GE "Red Top" / 20-valve (1989-1991) - progressive updates, not cross-compatible.
  • 4A-GE "Silver Top" 20-valve (1991-1995, AE101) - completely different head design with 20 valves.
  • 4A-GE "Black Top" 20-valve (1995-2000, AE111) - 20-valve, different head gasket and valve stem seal specifications.

Before ordering, confirm your engine is the 1st-generation 4A-GE 16V small-port. Telltale signs: T-VIS intake system (8 additional secondary intake runners with vacuum-actuated butterflies), "small port" cylinder head (smaller intake ports than later 4A-GEs), and compression ratio around 9.4:1. If in doubt, photograph the engine and send us the picture with your VIN for verification.

Full Gasket Set - Important Installation Information
  • Oil sump gasket is NOT in this kit. If you plan to drop the sump (for crank inspection, oil pickup service, or bottom-end work), order a sump gasket separately before starting the job.
  • Inspect cylinder head bolts for stretching, corrosion, and thread damage. Replace any suspect bolts - head bolt failure on torque-down can crack the head or block.
  • Have the cylinder head pressure-tested and crack-checked by a reputable machine shop before reassembly. Skim the head face only if warpage exceeds manufacturer tolerance.
  • Measure the block deck for flatness at the same time - a warped block cannot be sealed by a new head gasket alone.
  • Clean all gasket mating surfaces thoroughly with a non-scouring scraper or gasket remover. Do NOT use a wire wheel or power tool on aluminium surfaces - it removes metal and prevents sealing.
  • Fit the head gasket dry (no sealant) unless the gasket manufacturer specifies otherwise. Ensure the gasket is orientated correctly - markings such as "TOP" or "FRONT" indicate the installed orientation.
  • Torque cylinder head bolts in the manufacturer-specified sequence and multiple stages (typically 3-4 progressive torque steps). Consult the Toyota 4A-GE workshop manual for exact torque figures and sequence.
  • Replace the timing belt, timing belt tensioner, water pump, and cam seals at the same time - these all require the timing cover to be removed during head service, and the labour cost to replace them is minimal while you're already there.
  • Fit valve stem seals carefully using the correct tool - avoid damaging the seal lip on the valve guide edge during installation.
  • Run the engine through a careful break-in cycle after reassembly. Check for leaks, re-torque where applicable, and verify oil pressure and cooling system operation on initial start-up.

Installation / Use / Maintenance Tips

  • Lay out all kit contents before starting disassembly. Confirm every expected gasket and seal is present and the correct profile for your engine.
  • Photograph the engine from multiple angles before teardown. For the 4A-GE specifically, document the T-VIS linkage, vacuum hose routing, and intake manifold arrangement - these can be difficult to reassemble from memory alone.
  • Use a torque wrench that has been recently calibrated. Old or abused torque wrenches can be 10%+ out of specification, which is enough to cause head gasket failure.
  • Work in a clean environment. Even small debris in the head gasket sealing zone can compromise the seal.
  • Consider replacing the cam sensor seal, distributor O-ring, and oil pressure switch seal while the engine is apart if they look tired - they fail at similar ages and are difficult to access without dismantling.
  • This is a specialist rebuild - if you are not experienced with engine assembly, consider having the work done by a workshop familiar with the 4A-GE 16V. Reputable SA specialists include several Japanese-focused performance shops.

Common Questions

Will this fit my 4A-GE engine?
Only if it is the 1st-generation 4A-GE 16V (small-port, T-VIS) as fitted to 1986-1988 SA-market Toyota Conquest RSi and Corolla RSi. It does NOT fit the 2nd-gen "Red Top" 4A-GE, 20V "Silver Top", or 20V "Black Top" variants. If your engine has been swapped at any point, verify the actual engine generation before ordering.

Is an oil sump gasket included?
No. This kit covers the cylinder head gasket, crankshaft seal, and valve stem seals plus supporting top-end gaskets. If you are doing a bottom-end rebuild or removing the sump for any reason, order a separate sump gasket.

Are head bolts included?
No. Head bolts are not part of a standard full gasket set. Inspect the bolts carefully - if they show stretching, corrosion, or thread damage, replace them. Many 4A-GE rebuilders replace head bolts as a matter of course during a rebuild.

What's the difference between the Toyota OE part numbers (04111-16020 / 16021 / 16022 / 16023)?
These are progressive head gasket revisions for the 1st-generation 4A-GE 16V - Toyota updated the gasket specification during the production run to address sealing and durability refinements. All four numbers refer to compatible gasket revisions for the same engine family. This kit matches the family.

What does the "small-port" designation mean?
The 1st-generation 4A-GE (1983-1987) has smaller intake ports in the cylinder head compared to the 2nd-generation "big-port" version (1987-1989). This difference means the head gaskets are not interchangeable between generations. The small-port head is also lower-flow but produces the characteristic 4A-GE power curve when combined with the T-VIS intake system.

What is T-VIS?
T-VIS (Toyota Variable Intake System) is a twin-stage intake manifold system fitted to the 1st and 2nd generation 4A-GE. Secondary intake runners are closed at low RPM for improved low-end torque and open above approximately 4,200 rpm for top-end power. It's a distinguishing feature of early 4A-GE engines.

How do I confirm the engine is really the 1st-gen 4A-GE?
Look for: the engine code "4A-GE" stamped on the block, a 7-rib engine block, small intake ports, T-VIS intake manifold with visible butterfly linkage, and a red valve cover with "16V" or "TWIN CAM" markings. If in doubt, send us photographs of the engine bay, cam cover, and intake manifold with your enquiry.

Shipping Notes
  • Free Standard Shipping on $100+ Orders to the USA.
  • Except Preorder products are shipped in 48 hours.
  • Delivery to the USA:
  1. Standard Shipping : 3-10 business days
  • If time is of the essence, please consider selecting expedited delivery for faster service.
Exchange/Return Notes
  • We offer a 30-day return/exchange service after receiving.
  • Final sale items are not eligible for returns or exchanges.
  • To process your return/exchange, please contact us at [email protected]
  • Please click here for more details>>> Return & Exchange Policy
SKU: 16605359764

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I ordered this mouse (in blue) to replace the recently deceased exact same model that I've used for the past 2 or 3 years. I like the simplicity of the M185 mouse and mostly the best bang for your buck! I caught this one on sale for less than a ten-spot, so I thought, "why not." I'm hoping that this one will last a bit longer than my two previous M185 models, that averaged about 3 years each. This model seems plagued by a short life span and is predisposed to mysteriously and suddenly dying, without any obvious symptoms or warning of any kind - - you're working and clicking along, going about your day, when suddenly the cursor on the computer screen freezes and that's it. Nothing, zero, nada. Funny thing, I'm very careful not to abuse or drop the mouse, and keep a fresh battery installed and watch for leakage and all that stuff - - they just stop working, and I assume it is caused by some sort of inherent electronic fault in the circuitry of the previous M185's. Due to my loyalty to the brand and model (and since it was on sale) I decided to give it one more shot. They say that "third time's a charm". I like the fact that the M185 is simple and uncluttered with extra buttons that I would never use for my purpose, which is simple web-browsing and the occasional text document production. The feel is solid, not heavy, but not cheap feeling, either. I'm used to the shape of this mouse, which to me is quite comfortable for long sessions, another reason why I kind of wanted to stay with this model. The buttons have an audible "click", which doesn't bother me at all, and the wheel moves smoothly and also has a clicking operation (which I rarely ever use). The overall surface of the mouse has a matte finish, but like my previous models I'm sure it will eventually wear shiny spots where my fingers reside and will attain a more "well-used" look in time. Connecting it was a breeze, too. I just plugged the dongle into a spare rear usb port of my desktop, and the mouse connected instantly, no problem. The dongle can be stored safely inside the battery compartment, so you can take the whole thing out of the house if needed for use elsewhere. The speed of 1000 dpi seems just right for my purposes. The one I ordered even came with its own AA Duracell battery, which I wasn't really expecting. This mouse also enters "sleep mode" when you don't use it for a while, and I can't say how many times I've got up and left it on all night. And that's not hard to do, as I'll explain next. The only real negative to this mouse is the absence of any easily visible status indicator of it's on / off switch. The rear housing of this mouse is matte black, including the tiny switch where you turn it on and off with your fingernail, with only a very faint "on" lettering (also black), and very hard to see with my aging eyes. The laser is not lighted or visible when on, also adding to the confusion, especially in a darkened room. So, as a workaround, I took a tiny drop of green paint and placed it down inside the switch slider to visibly help indicate the "on" position, and likewise a dot of bright orange for the "off" position. Many of Logitech's more expensive models (and a few other manufacturers) include this color-coded switch indication. I guess for the $$, they had to cut corners somewhere - - a minor complaint. In summary, this is a good basic mouse that works - - let's hope that this one will last longer than its two predecessors.
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Reviewed in the United States on February 17, 2023
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Reviewed in the United States on April 10, 2026
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★★★★★ 5
Bad auto driver install. Great mouse. Few of the left hand mfgs.
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Really crappy auto driver install. Locked up my USB ports for my usb keyboard, usb mouse, all usb ports in fact. Had to reboot multiple times with an old style 5pin keyboard since the software screwed up my usb ports. All of them. Lucky I have a motherboard with an old style keyboard port. A reboot of W11 in safe mode, ripped out auto-installed software, registry keys and rebooted to regain control of my USB ports. I do not know what went wrong. Alls I know is Logitech loaded something, it locked up my USB ports and I had to rip everything Logitech out to get control again. I downloaded the software, installed it and it worked fine. I've had no problems since. I'm an old lefty and as such am ambidextrous in most areas, since there just was not left handed oriented items readily available. You had to have left handed stuff made so you learned to do things right handed. I've developed carpal tunnel in both elbows and had purchased a couple of vertical mice, one left and one right. I took the left into work and was looking for a replacement. My other two were around $30 ea. I liked the right handed vertical mouse (Anker). They do not make a left handed version. The left handed mouse is ok, not as good as the Anker. I decided to go above my spend tolerance and get the Logi after reading many reviews. It has not disappointed me. The auto-install sucked. Never letting that happen again. It is a nice smooth mouse. Fine movements that are easily adjustable. The hand position is excellent. I can use this all day without switching to the right because of elbow pain. If you have the pain, you know what I am talking about when it flares. It takes some getting used to the subtlety of the clicks when coming from lower cost mice. Soft and gently like a newborn's .... One of my big criteria for a vertical mouse is a landing area for the outer two fingers (pinky and next to pinky for finger orientation challenged). When you go to a vertical mouse, it takes some adjustment to moving the mouse since you can't really press down with your palm and inside two fingers (the ones next to the outside two fingers). It is helpful to be able to use the two outer fingers and thumb to aid in moving the mouse. You have to experience a vertical mouse to understand. The right handed only Anker goes from an inch to a half inch in the length of my pinky below the buttons on the side. This is a really nice landing area for the outside fingers to assist moving the mouse around. You can squeeze a little and the mouse glides. The Logi mouse is a wee shorter than the Anker and the area below the buttons in a mostly straight 3/4". Both mice curve quickly down to the inside below this area. I was used to a vertical mouse by the time I purchased the Logi and I have no issues with the pinky dragging the table and the finger next to pinky resting on the landing. I move the mouse with no problems. It is the subtlety of how one interacts with these style of mice. The big plus, takes a long time before mouse use causes pain flareups. And this isn't just a pain and done. Depending on how one ignores the pain, often determines how many days life sucks. The Logi mouse minimizes the flare ups. I'm thinking of taking the Anker in and getting a right handed Logi for home. I like the Anker, I'm frugal and highly recommend it for getting your feet wet. I love the Logi (auto-install sucks) and will probably ignore my frugal tendencies and get a right handed one since I don't switch hands as frequently with the Logi in the mix. Don't have to suffer auto-install either.
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