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Description
LC1D326P7Main Range TeSys Product name TeSys D Product or component type Contactor Device short name LC1D Contactor application Motor control Resistive load Utilisation category AC 4 AC 3 AC 1 Poles description 3P Power pole contact composition 3 NO [Ue] rated operational voltage Power circuit: <= 690 V AC 25 400 Hz Power circuit: <= 300 V DC [Ie] rated operational current 32 A (at <60 C) at <= 440 V AC AC 3 for power circuit 50 A (at <60 C) at <= 440 V AC AC
Main
| Range | TeSys |
| Product name | TeSys D |
| Product or component type | Contactor |
| Device short name | LC1D |
| Contactor application | Motor control Resistive load |
| Utilisation category | AC-4 AC-3 AC-1 |
| Poles description | 3P |
| Power pole contact composition | 3 NO |
| [Ue] rated operational voltage | Power circuit: <= 690 V AC 25...400 Hz Power circuit: <= 300 V DC |
| [Ie] rated operational current | 32 A (at <60 °C) at <= 440 V AC AC-3 for power circuit 50 A (at <60 °C) at <= 440 V AC AC-1 for power circuit |
| Motor power kW | 7.5 kW at 220...230 V AC 50/60 Hz (AC-3) 15 kW at 380...400 V AC 50/60 Hz (AC-3) 15 kW at 415...440 V AC 50/60 Hz (AC-3) 18.5 kW at 500 V AC 50/60 Hz (AC-3) 18.5 kW at 660...690 V AC 50/60 Hz (AC-3) 7.5 kW at 400 V AC 50/60 Hz (AC-4) |
| Motor power HP (UL / CSA) | 2 hp at 115 V AC 50/60 Hz for 1 phase motors 5 hp at 230/240 V AC 50/60 Hz for 1 phase motors 7.5 hp at 200/208 V AC 50/60 Hz for 3 phases motors 10 hp at 230/240 V AC 50/60 Hz for 3 phases motors 20 hp at 460/480 V AC 50/60 Hz for 3 phases motors 30 hp at 575/600 V AC 50/60 Hz for 3 phases motors |
| Control circuit type | AC at 50/60 Hz |
| [Uc] control circuit voltage | 230 V AC 50/60 Hz |
| Auxiliary contact composition | 1 NO + 1 NC |
| [Uimp] rated impulse withstand voltage | 6 kV conforming to IEC 60947 |
| Overvoltage category | III |
| [Ith] conventional free air thermal current | 10 A (at 60 °C) for signalling circuit 50 A (at 60 °C) for power circuit |
| Irms rated making capacity | 140 A AC for signalling circuit conforming to IEC 60947-5-1 250 A DC for signalling circuit conforming to IEC 60947-5-1 550 A at 440 V for power circuit conforming to IEC 60947 |
| Rated breaking capacity | 550 A at 440 V for power circuit conforming to IEC 60947 |
| [Icw] rated short-time withstand current | 260 A 40 °C - 10 s for power circuit 430 A 40 °C - 1 s for power circuit 60 A 40 °C - 10 min for power circuit 138 A 40 °C - 1 min for power circuit 100 A - 1 s for signalling circuit 120 A - 500 ms for signalling circuit 140 A - 100 ms for signalling circuit |
| Associated fuse rating | 10 A gG for signalling circuit conforming to IEC 60947-5-1 63 A gG at <= 690 V coordination type 1 for power circuit 63 A gG at <= 690 V coordination type 2 for power circuit |
| Average impedance | 2 mOhm - Ith 50 A 50 Hz for power circuit |
| [Ui] rated insulation voltage | Power circuit: 690 V conforming to IEC 60947-4-1 Power circuit: 600 V CSA certified Power circuit: 600 V UL certified Signalling circuit: 690 V conforming to IEC 60947-1 Signalling circuit: 600 V CSA certified Signalling circuit: 600 V UL certified |
| Electrical durability | 1.65 Mcycles 32 A AC-3 at Ue <= 440 V 1.4 Mcycles 50 A AC-1 at Ue <= 440 V |
| Power dissipation per pole | 2 W AC-3 5 W AC-1 |
| Safety cover | With |
| Mounting support | Rail Plate |
| Standards | CSA C22.2 No 14 EN 60947-4-1 EN 60947-5-1 IEC 60947-4-1 IEC 60947-5-1 UL 508 |
| Product certifications | LROS (Lloyds register of shipping) BV UL GL CCC DNV CSA RINA GOST |
| Connections - terminals | Control circuit: lugs-ring terminals (external diameter: 8 mm) Power circuit: lugs-ring terminals (external diameter: 10 mm) |
| Tightening torque | Control circuit: 1.7 N.m - on lugs-ring terminals - with screwdriver flat √ò 6 mm M3.5 Control circuit: 1.7 N.m - on lugs-ring terminals - with screwdriver Philips No 2 M3.5 Power circuit: 2.5 N.m - on lugs-ring terminals - with screwdriver flat √ò 8 mm M4 Power circuit: 2.5 N.m - on lugs-ring terminals - with screwdriver Philips No 2 M4 |
| Operating time | 12...22 ms closing 4...19 ms opening |
| Safety reliability level | B10d = 1369863 cycles contactor with nominal load conforming to EN/ISO 13849-1 B10d = 20000000 cycles contactor with mechanical load conforming to EN/ISO 13849-1 |
| Mechanical durability | 15 Mcycles |
| Maximum operating rate | 3600 cyc/h 60 °C |
Complementary
| Coil technology | Without built-in suppressor module |
| Control circuit voltage limits | Drop-out: 0.3...0.6 Uc AC 50/60 Hz (at 60 °C) Operational: 0.8...1.1 Uc AC 50 Hz (at 60 °C) Operational: 0.85...1.1 Uc AC 60 Hz (at 60 °C) |
| Inrush power in VA | 70 VA 60 Hz cos phi 0.75 (at 20 °C) 70 VA 50 Hz cos phi 0.75 (at 20 °C) |
| Hold-in power consumption in VA | 7.5 VA 60 Hz cos phi 0.3 (at 20 °C) 7 VA 50 Hz cos phi 0.3 (at 20 °C) |
| Heat dissipation | 2…3 W at 50/60 Hz |
| Auxiliary contacts type | Type mechanically linked 1 NO + 1 NC conforming to IEC 60947-5-1 Type mirror contact 1 NC conforming to IEC 60947-4-1 |
| Signalling circuit frequency | 25...400 Hz |
| Minimum switching current | 5 mA for signalling circuit |
| Minimum switching voltage | 17 V for signalling circuit |
| Non-overlap time | 1.5 ms on de-energisation between NC and NO contact 1.5 ms on energisation between NC and NO contact |
| Insulation resistance | > 10 MOhm for signalling circuit |
Environment
| IP degree of protection | IP20 front face conforming to IEC 60529 |
| Protective treatment | TH conforming to IEC 60068-2-30 |
| Pollution degree | 3 |
| Ambient air temperature for operation | -5…60 °C |
| Ambient air temperature for storage | -60…80 °C |
| Permissible ambient air temperature around the device | -40…70 °C at Uc |
| Operating altitude | 3000 m without |
| Fire resistance | 850 °C conforming to IEC 60695-2-1 |
| Flame retardance | V1 conforming to UL 94 |
| Mechanical robustness | Vibrations contactor open: 2 Gn, 5...300 Hz Vibrations contactor closed: 4 Gn, 5...300 Hz Shocks contactor closed: 15 Gn for 11 ms Shocks contactor open: 8 Gn for 11 ms |
| Height | 85 mm |
| Width | 45 mm |
| Depth | 92 mm |
| Net weight | 0.375 kg |
Offer Sustainability
| Sustainable offer status | Green Premium product |
| REACh Regulation | REACh Declaration |
| EU RoHS Directive | Compliant EU RoHS Declaration |
| Toxic heavy metal free | Yes |
| Mercury free | Yes |
| RoHS exemption information | Yes |
| China RoHS Regulation | China RoHS declaration |
| Environmental Disclosure | Product Environmental Profile |
| Circularity Profile | End of Life Information |
| WEEE | The product must be disposed on European Union markets following specific waste collection and never end up in rubbish bins |
Contractual warranty
| Warranty | 18 months |
Shipping Notes
- Free Standard Shipping on $100+ Orders to the USA.
- Except Preorder products are shipped in 48 hours.
- Delivery to the USA:
- Standard Shipping : 3-10 business days
- If time is of the essence, please consider selecting expedited delivery for faster service.
Exchange/Return Notes
- We offer a 30-day return/exchange service after receiving.
- Final sale items are not eligible for returns or exchanges.
- To process your return/exchange, please contact us at [email protected]
- Please click here for more details>>> Return & Exchange Policy
4.7 ★★★★★
Based on 30 reviews
Sort
Product Reviews
★★★★★ 5
Fantastic speaker plug at a great price!
Size: 5 Pack, Pattern Name: Banana Plugs
This is a product that gets the job done effectively, and at a good price. Banana plugs are used to clean up speaker wire - you can generally screw in speaker wire, but banana plugs provide a nice interface that allows you to plug in and remove speaker wire as needed.
These closed plugs do a good job terminating / hiding the wire. They fit very well into various components and amps that I own.
INSTRUCTIONS to install / use them:
* Remove around 1" - 2" of the white casing to expose the red and white individual speaker wires
* Strip each wire so ~1/2" metal is showing
* Make sure the plug end is screwed in tightly (this does not need to come out)
* Unscrew the base of the plug from the other end
* WithOUT twisting the metal wiring, insert the wire (match wire color with plug color; start with either one) from the bottom of the plug until the metal sticks out the top
* Have ~1/4" metal hanging past the plug
* take the wiring and drape it down the sides of the plug (just the smooth side, do NOT cover any of the screw threading or it will be very hard to close it)
* Spread the draped wiring around the plug as evenly as possible (makes it easier to screw in later)
* Screw the two ends of the plug back together (the side with the draped wiring will go inside the plug)
* If you get stuck while screwing it back in, unscrew and adjust the wiring
* Repeat for the other side, and you're done!
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Reviewed in the United States on January 10, 2019
★★★★★ 4
pretty good banana plugs
Size: 5 Pack, Pattern Name: Banana Plugs
i bought these over 6 months ago and i just installed them to the front left and right floor standing speakers - sony ssf-7000 i have them for over 10 years hooked up to a yamaha 7.1 AVR.
alot of people have had trouble installing this - one single banana plug comes in 3 parts - the bottom and top (the banana plug tip) can be unscrewed.
what i did was tightened the top first (top being the tip of the banana plug) then unscrew the bottom off completely - make sure you have like 3/4" - 1" (depending on your gauge of wire) of exposed speaker wire that is straight - then thread it through the hole at the bottom up - i then rolled the exposed 3/4 - 1" exposed copper wiring into a ball that is bigger than the hole of the banana plug bottom piece so the wire doesn't fall back through where it came from. then i screwed on the top and middle piece back with the bottom piece - tightening it a bit so i know there's good contact. also make sure the tip is screwed in all the way as well as a double check. what you don't want to do is have the copper wire touch the threaded part of the bottom piece - the wire will cut off from the screwing action.
i plugged it into my sony speakers and it wasn't a real snug fit - a bit too loose to feel secure - it didn't seem to go all the way in - but it fit fairly well in my receiver. my intention was to use these banana plugs with my 2 channel set up but i decided to go pre-constructed mediabridge 12 AWG speaker cable instead - those fit my 2 channel set up on my receiver and elacs really snug and secure.
i tested it and it works fine. i didn't hear any loss of signal or any extraneous noise. none of my (14 awg?) wiring fell through the bottom and it sounds good. so no complaints there.
i bought 5 pairs - but i find that it is an odd number to include a package - even numbered pairs would be better.
anyway they seem constructed well - easy enough to install and they do work.
thanks for reading
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Reviewed in the United States on September 12, 2019
★★★★★ 5
High quality and robust
Size: 12 Pairs, Pattern Name: Banana Plugs
Easily the best plugs I've found at a reasonable price. Solid feeling with good quality and they look good with easy to see red/black labeling. The tips tend to unscrew too easily, but this is a non-issue when they are in use, just something you have to be careful not to lose when assembling. It's a bit tricky to spread the wire out evenly at the exact right length. If screwing the plug together is hard at all, go back and shorten how much wire you bend over the lip.
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Reviewed in the United States on June 16, 2025
★★★★★ 5
Solid banana clips
Size: 5 Pack, Pattern Name: Banana Plugs
Ah yes, I used these solid banana plugs to convert my wires. It’s pretty easy to set up once the wire housing has been stripped and really cleans things up nicely. I haven’t had any discernable hissing, noise problems, or connection issues.
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Reviewed in the United States on May 25, 2026
★★★★★ 3
Get the right wire guage
Size: 1 Count (Pack of 1), Pattern Name: Banana Plugs
I rate the banana plugs themselves 4 stars. They are everything I expected and work as advertised. It's the experience of assembly that I rate three stars. The way these work is -- you strip off the outer insullation of your wire and separate the two leads (positive and negative). Then you strip some length of insulation off the end of one of your leads, you unscrew the banana plug so that it separates into its respective base (lower) and contact (upper) halves, you slip the wire up through the base, you flare the copper strands of the wire and fold the individual strands over the very top of the base (about 1/16 of an inch) (taking care not to extend the strands over the threaded barrel of the base), then you screw the upper contact onto the lower base and voila, banana plug / wire assembly. It's not as complicated as it sounds. Go to the Monoprice website and watch their excellent instructional video.
Here's the thing though. While the assembly is not complicated, it is tricky, and if you don't get your proportions right the first or second or third time, you'll have to do it over. Fist of all, if your wire guage is relatively thin, like my 16-guage speaker wire, you'll find that the entire wire, insullation and all, will slip right through the base of the plug without butting up against the bottom of the base. If this is the case, then the wire is left to sort of flop around inside the plug and that has a kind of unfinished, amateur look and feel to it, whereas if the wire butts up against the bottom of the base, it has a solid, one-piece professional look. So, to my mind, there's a sweet-spot for wire guage that works best with this plug -- not too thin and not too thick. And since Monoprice has debunked the thicker-is-better myth (the quality of the copper is the real determinant), then you should feel free to get the wire guage that fits the plug.
Next -- and here's where it gets tricky -- once your copper extends beyond the top of the base, you'll need to limit this extension to about a sixteenth (no greatrer than a fourth) of an inch. Then you very delicately flare out the individual strands, in a 360- degree arc, and fold the strands over the top of the base. This takes a fair degree of manual dexterity, especially if the wire is "floating" inside the base and its travel is not stopped where the insullation meets the base. You'll have to hold the wire and base steady in the fingers of one hand, then flare out the wire strands with either your fingers or a suitable object (the working end of a ball-point pen worked for me) with the other hand. This one-sixteenth measure is important. If you extend wire strands beyond the top and over the threads of the base, you'll find that screwing the contact end onto the base is impossible and you'll need to start over. One or two strands is OK and almost unavoidable. In that case the screwing will catch but if you take a pair of pliers to it you can muscle through. By the way, you can avoid the whole mess by getting the open-screw type, which I'm sure will work just as well without any of the hassle of assembly.
Like anything else, if you do it a few times to make the mistakes and learn the tricks, then it will become second nature, and if you've already done that, then my review might seem overly fussy. In that case feel free to leave comments to help other readers.
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Reviewed in the United States on October 15, 2012
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